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Post by marsss25 on Sept 29, 2020 13:39:29 GMT
Fourth in the quartz series and third in the quartz chrono series . . . Seiko Arcadia Chronograph (1/5th Sec, 1-hr 7T62) This has the 7T62 alarm chrono sister movement to the 7T92 1/20th sec, 24hr chrono from a couple days ago. Bought it as it's the chrono companion to the Arcadia Perpetual, but the movement inside is a time-setting pain because of how the alarm time sub-dial works, and its totalizer is limited to an hour. I don't use the alarm function but have used the chrono a few times for short events. If this had the 7T92 inside, it would be the bees knees. FYI . . . leaving a 7T62 running continuously drains the battery quickly as the central seconds steps five times per second.  |
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Post by marsss25 on Sept 29, 2020 13:40:25 GMT
Ticino Beobachtungsuhr Type BPowered by a Miyota 9015, with a slightly domed AR-coated sapphire crystal, this is a faithful recreation of the WWII Luftwaffe navigator's chronometer (it wasn't a pilot's watch) with the second "Type B" dial configuration. Ticino did an excellent job on the design and execution of these in movement, materials and build quality. These are scaled down to fit on the naked wrist as the originals were huge. They were made using pocket watch size movements and designed to be worn over heavy, insulated flight jackets with high legibility in a bomber cockpit. B-Uhr was (and still is) the abbreviation for Beobachtungsuhr (lit. observer's watch). Pilots wore a chronograph as a backup for the cockpit clock.    Design and specification drawing for Wempe's production of them in Hamburg, dated November 2, 1942 and approved December 1942. Specifies using one of two movements from Lange or Durowe. Wempe was one of five firms, four German (Stowa, Wempe, Lange & Söhne, and Laco), and one Swiss (IWC Schaffhausen) that made the Luftwaffe's B-Uhr navigation chronometer. 
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Post by marsss25 on Sept 29, 2020 13:41:21 GMT
Today is the Grovana Coral Reef Chronograph (ETA 7750) Grovana's Revue Thomen brand is much better known, but a number of pieces like these are marketed under both brand names. A true 300m/1000ft diver, the pushers are screw down with working knurled collars in addition to the crown - unlike many chronographs on which they're merely show. A decent 42mm diameter as compared to the much larger Invicta, as with all 7.9mm tall ETA 7750 (and variant) movement chronos, it's still chunky at 17mm thick.   |
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Post by marsss25 on Sept 29, 2020 13:42:19 GMT
Victorinox AirBoss Mechanical (ETA 2824-2) Lume on the Victorinox shield is a nice touch. A lumed seconds hand would have been outstanding.  
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Post by marsss25 on Sept 29, 2020 13:42:51 GMT
Hamilton Khaki Mechanical H69419363 (ETA 2804-2) on a Maratac Mil-Spec. Zulu Made circa 2015 prior to the 80 Hr. mid-beat 21.6kbph H50 without date complication (ETA 2801-2 base). This one has the same general style as the 1970's-1980's era US military, but isn't completely faithful to it, with an OD green dial, different style chapter ring markings, date complication and drilled lugs. The current H50 model jettisons the date complication and recreates the original black dial much more faithfully. This is also 40mm diameter with a 20mm lug width, whereas the original US military was 34mm diameter with 16mm lug width, had non-removable strap bars and came with a 16mm Zulu style OD green woven nylon strap. This would be among the three I'd use now.   
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Post by marsss25 on Sept 29, 2020 13:43:27 GMT
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Post by marsss25 on Sept 30, 2020 21:57:41 GMT
San Martin 62MASPaying homage to Seiko's first "dive" watch introduced in April 1965, the 62MAS-010, aka 6217-8000 using the movement caliber and case number. San Martin's is an updated version with an SII NH35 movement, drilled lugs, screw down crown, water resistance increased from 150m to 200m, domed sapphire crystal, and ceramic bezel insert. Case size is 3mm larger at 40mm diameter, and lug width 1mm wider at 20mm, the latter allowing much greater choice for aftermarket straps and vintage style bracelets. 
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Post by marsss25 on Oct 3, 2020 10:50:51 GMT
Aragon Hiro today Has a Big Pilot vibe, powered by a SII NH36. 
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Post by marsss25 on Oct 3, 2020 10:51:58 GMT
Orient Maestro on Staib Polonaise mesh Orient's alternative Bauhaus style to the Gen2 v3 Bambino, with a friendlier 20mm lug width. Hermann Staib, GmbH, founded in 1922, is one of several watch industry metalwork companies in Pforzheim, Germany. They specialize in stainless steel and precious metal mesh products for jewelry, pens and watches, plus some related jewelry metalworking.   
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Post by marsss25 on Oct 3, 2020 13:18:34 GMT
Seiko 5 Field Watch (SRP275; 4R36) on sage green Marathon Mil-Spec "zulu". The impossible to find mythical one with hand-wind, hacking and drilled lugs. These came and went very quickly in 2013. It would be a decent military watch except for one deal-breaker: the dead flat hardlex crystal that's like a signalling mirror. Sunlight reflecting from it can be seen for well over a mile. A good military watch will have a convex domed crystal to prevent that, and it doesn't take much curvature (e.g. Hamilton's Khaki field watches).  
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Post by marsss25 on Oct 5, 2020 23:14:34 GMT
Boctok Attache 7211 S. 40010 Famous for their Komandirskie and Amfibia watches, this large, heavy rectangular, Art Deco dress watch was created by Boctok in 2003 and won a European design award. Powered by a Boctok 31 jewel 2416B automatic with an unusual 19.8 kbph (2.75Hz) beat rate, halfway between a 18kbph (2.5Hz) standard beat, and 21.6kbph (3Hz) mid-beat. Leave it to the Russkis to be different.  
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Post by marsss25 on Oct 8, 2020 13:42:11 GMT
Aragon Divemaster 42 Automatic (SII NH36A) Wing upped his game on the 42mm diameter, 14mm thick Divemaster with sapphire crystal, ceramic fully lumed bezel, and lumed seconds hand tip. The added touch is a lumed logo on the signed crown. These were specifically designed for those who have been asking for a smaller size from him, and it's a recognition that watch sizes are going back down some.  
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Post by marsss25 on Oct 8, 2020 13:43:22 GMT
Nice one Johan! Citizen Eco-Drive Moon Phase (AP1020-57L Cal. 8651) I've had this one since 2007, but don't wear it much. Sits under a low power bedside table lamp to maintain its charge. For all it does to display date and month with day of week, it should be a perpetual, but it's not. Requires spinning the date forward at the end of short months. Moonphase works well; correcting it is rare.  |
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